Practice on some Elizabethan hairstyles

Once we learn new skills we try to practice them creating some Elizabethan hairstyles.
Here are some of the Elizabethan hairstyles I tried to create:

1. Plaits with a ribbon

                

We can notice that the plaits were very popular since the very old times, as they are represented also on Elizabethan portrais:

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRsH4TLL6n6sLcYUx5aGRjT61cAiYTDDpGZRdnD9lHc6zfJIiBLl5b2lk3oGdS6dGVmBUg6EddeeZwgn70jWkFpntIUdgDD7ZqzOo_8FVx9O4Kci5TveIopZ5JeZPJiyHRHQxqSijnwZIJ/s1600/detail-the-way-to-calvary-bassono-cropped.jpg

I think this is the perfect example to show  of Elizabethan hairstyle in which there is plaiting with a ribbon.

2. Padding and curls

Inspired by:

3. Double padding 

This can be considered a kind of a modern hairstyle of the Elizabethan look as the plait goes in between the heart-shape.

 The heart-shape hairstyle I think is very noticeable if looking through the Elizabethan portraits.

http://trystancraft.com/costume/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/sca-hair-EmiliaBassano1593.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocucg9A-ZYMgg3q13_GMUyZYrYT9B21P8-NJB7dMyOtwXm99AjOMHixL6_XXJVtZJWYykrZCHbIc6uGXsOYgIP1ZrKviVw3rylJ1LegsORGhwjav1YnFgKbEg6XBBeZl3hUohgQ3JB_k/s1600/Kitchnerportraitc1580Compressed.jpg

http://trystancraft.com/costume/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/1580-Lady-FransPourbusOlder.jpg

Frizzing

•         Take a small section of the hair and a pin
•     Turn this section of the hair on one side of the pin and the on the another side, as we were drawing the sign of infinity
•        Take the straightener and put that plait into it for some secondsLet it cool down
•     Take out the pin. We can notice how the hair has a zigzag shape

• Comb though that section of hair

Elizabethan portrait of frizzed hair:

Actually In this picture of Queen Elizabeth we cannot know for sure if the hair is crimped or there are small curls, but I think it can be considered as made with the frizzing technique.

Curling

1.      Heat the curling iron
2.      Brush your hair thoroughly. Make sure there are no tangles or your curls won’t form properly. Your hair should be completely dry before you curl it.
3.      Separate your hair into sections. 
4.      Working in sections, curl your hair. Using just the wand (and not the clamp at the bottom of the wand that "holds" the hair as it curls), wrap your section of hair around the barrel. Be sure not to overlap your hair, as this will reduce heat and result in limp sections. Use your fingers to hold the edge of the section of hair close to the barrel without burning your hair. Doing this rather than using the clamp will prevent crimps in the curls.
Be sure to alternate the curling direction between clockwise and counter clock wise for a more natural effect.
5.      Once a curl is down, quickly pin it up.

Wait until the curls are no longer hot before you take off the clips.

   

Here is an example of Elizabethan portraits where the curled hair is present:

In this image is well noticeable the curls of Queen Elizabeth and probably on the back she could have a bun or some plaits to complete her hair style

Crimping

1.     Take a crimper
2.     Decide what part of your hair you want to style
3.     Grab a section of hair and gently clamp down the crimper holding the hair in the crimper from 5 to 12 seconds(it depends on the hair, if it is damaged or also the type of the hair )
4.     If you want volume, then comb through after you let it to cool down

Some examples of Elizabethan portraits where we can suppose that the hair is crimped as we don't really know what technique did the Elizabethan women use for creating their hair-styles:

In this picture we can notice that in the front side the Queen Elizabeth has curled hair, but on the back I suppose is crimped. Crimped hair was also used for creating a hairstyle where the padding is present, as in the picture above.

I suppose that in this Elizabethan portrait the hair of the sitter is crimped as it seem to be with a lot of volume and maybe techniques like backcombing or padding were used to create this hair design.

Elizabethan hairstyle

Elizabethan hair color

It was important for the Queen Elizabeth to maintain her image and the beauty of a "Virgin Queen". The Elizabethan view of ideal beauty was a woman with light hair and a snow white complexion complimented with red cheeks and red lips. Queen Elizabeth had a natural red color hair. This red hair look was emulated by many of the nobulity of Elizabethan era, as was the fair hair ideal of an ideal woman. An Upper Class Elizabethan woman followed this fashion further and might even dye their hair yellow with a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Wigs were also commonly used; Queen Elizabeth had a huge variety of wigs and hair pieces,

Elizabethan Hair Styles for Women

Elizabethan Hair Styles for woman were designed to compliment the upper class fashions of the day. Ruffs or ruffles were in high fashion and during the Elizabethan era these became more elaborate and were constructed on gauze wings which were raised at the back of the head. The ruffs, or collars, framed the face and dictated the hairstyles of the age which were generally short for men and swept up look was required for woman.A freezy hairstyle was also one of the required styles for women. Women kept their hair long.The long hair flowing hair of a young girl was a sign of a virgin and the favoured hairstyle foir a bride on her wedding day. An Elizabethan bride would adorn  her hair with fresh flowers. Ones a woman achieved the married status she wore her hair swept up.Long hair was generally dressed in a bun to which the variety of head coverings could be pinned. The front and sikdes of the hair received great attention as this was the area that was most displayed. 

Fringes were not in fashion-hairstyle fashion dictated that the hair was combed way from the forehead. This hairstyle was usually designed to compliment the style of the hat.Freezed hair was favoured by the Queen and therefore followed by ladies of the court although straight hair was favoured with a  center parting which especially complimented the french hood.

Head Coverings for Women

The Elizabethan fashion dictated that the head was adorned with a hat ,veil, coif, or caul.Thos fashion therefore ensured that much of the hair was hidden by some form of the head coverings. The style of the head covering dictated the hairstyle. Many of the hats were adorned with feathers, pearls, glass jewels, spangles,gold thread. embridery and lace.

• The Coif- worn by all children. The mterial was plain white linen, a close fitting cap tied under the chin. Coifs were often worn as caps to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats.

• The French Hood- introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. A half moon, or crescent, style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edge were often adorned with pearls or glass jewels and a veil covered the back of the hair.

• The Atifet- dimilar to the french hood style but with a heart shaped crescent.Lce trimmningr were added.

• The Caul- were the Elizabethan hair net. A Caul covered the hair at the back of the head and was made of fabric, or fabric covered by netted cord which was sometimes adorned  with spangles.

•  The pillbox style of hat- often had a veil attached to the back.

I find it really interesting how creative and original were the people even so many years ago. One of the things that fascinates me is that the pillbox hats are still worn in the English culture, on special ocasions. It proves that the history of every people has left its mark that it carries with it up to the present and will surely last forever.

http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm

London trip

The portrait that visually engaged me is the one of the Queen Elizabeth I, known as "The Ditchley  portrait", made by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. It was made in oil on canvas.

This portrait was produced for Sir Henry Lee, whio had been the Queen's champion from 1559-90. It probably commemorates an elaborate symbolic entertainment which Lee organised for the Queen in September 1592, and which may have been held in the groubnd's of Lee's house at Ditchley, near Oxford, or at the nearby place at Woodstock.After his retirement in 1590.

The portait shows Elizabeth standing on the globe of the world, with her feet on Oxfordshire. The stormy sky, the clouds parting to reveal sunshine,and the inscriptions on the painting make it plain that the portait's symbolic theme is Forgiveness. The sun represented there is the symbol of the SUN.

Looking at her clothes we can notice some particular elements which are  symbolic. For example the angel wings around her head means that she is sent from God. The rose on her neckband symbolise youth and it is flowering and blossoming like the queen. She also wears very expensive jewels that only the first class people could wear. The white dress symbolise the purity. The queen is holdin a fan in her arms that only the rich had. In her left hand she is holding a glove that was worn by officers, so it shows the military strength.

I was partucularly affascinated by this portrait because of the clothing, the location and especially because of the small dettails which I thought could express many symbols of that era.

Step-by-step

Fishtail

  Split the hair into two section

 Separate a small amount of the hair from the out edge and cross it onto the opposite side

Repeat with a small section from the other side

Continue all the way down to the ends

 Be sure to pull small sections from underneath to cross over and try to grab the same size

Once arrived at the ends try to tug gently on the braid with the fingers to loosen it for an effortless look

There are also a lot of different interesting ways of styling the hair if you know how to make a Fishtail:

BUN

 Grab the hair and tie it with a hair-band

 Brush through the hair to be sure there are no knots

Take section of hair, make sure you can split it up into four different sections

 Back comb one section, not aggressive ,comb forward

Take the piece of hair and curl to a barrel, make sure there are no twists. Take curly grips and place one on one side and one on the other side

 Do next one to the side. Back comb makes the hair mouldable

 Make sure they are even. They have to be completely level (second curl). Back the same height as the front one.

Use the hair pin to manipulate the hair to close the gaps

 Once happy with closing it ,take the pin and put it where they join, sliding it along the sculp. If it goes too high it will flatten it. Always use a close pin, not a wide one

The Bun should have a lovely round shape

  If you are not happy with one section, just take it apart and do it again. Do not take the whole style apart

Washing the hair

Before washing the hair, we have to ask the model:

·       The name

·       What sort of hair he/she has

·       The length: real hair or extension

·       Natural colour or coloured ( if it’s coloured it can be dry, damaged…etc. So it is an important question to ask for knowing how to regulate the heat of the water).

·       Allergy or Contra actions (May be in the past he/she use some medications that had/has impact on the hair)

Important

·       More the hair is greasy- less conditioner you need to use

·       Do not wash the hair with hot water. Any heat (natural or artificial) can damage the hair

Proceeding

·      Look through the hair for dryness (it can cause pain while washing)

·      Put a shoulder cape and a towel on the model’s shoulders and take another towel for hands, because I’ll have to put my dry hand on her forehead to direct the water

·      Make sure all the hair is in the basin

·      Control a medium temperature

·      Start wetting the hair making sure that the water goes through onto the scalp

·      Take a bit of shampoo

·      Gently put it over and make sure we go round the hair line and bring it down into the hair

·      Start building up the foam. If you start working it and the foam doesn’t come up –first of all try adding a small amount of water

·      The dirtiest part of the head will be the scalp. So using the finger tips, start rubbing the sculp.(this is the stage when you talk to the model and ask if you need to go harder or softer)

·      When you’re washing the hair, move the hair around to get the shampoo out

·      When shampooing for the second time I have to work more through the end, because the shampoo dries the hair

·      Then gently squeeze the excess water

·      Take the conditioner. Do not put much onto the scalp, but a bit more onto the length

·      Start with the mid-length, gently pressing into the hair

·      Whatever we got left onto our hands, just tap through gently on the top to saturate the area

·      Comb through the hair while there is the conditioner. (small sections)

·      Remove the conditioner. Now we can feel how the hair becomes silky and soft. If in the hair remained a bit of conditioner it will be difficult to dry it and also the hair will seem greasy

·      Remove the excess water then ask the model to sit up and rap the towel. If the model’s hair is sticking up, just twist it over and again over and press gently to remove water excess. The hand towel- put it on the model’s shoulders in order to can take the head towel off.

When the hair is wet it becomes more elastic, so do not comb with a normal hair brush!